Smoked Kippers

Saturday 12th March 2022

Uneventful drive via Abbey Parks (for refreshments), A1 (for convenience), McDonald’s at Durham Services (for more refreshments), and Sainsbury’s in Alnwick (for provisions) to reach Cherry Cottage in Dunstan, a stones throw from the Northumberland coast at Craster. An old converted fisherman’s cottage which was very clean and modern inside and was equipped with everything we could possibly need.

A quick bit of unpacking and organising what went where with a rummage around all the drawers and cupboards before we set off for a very brief walk around the hamlet as it was getting dark.

Back to the cottage for pizza and garlic bread, with wine from our own supplies followed by shortbread from the complimentary welcome pack.

After the long journey we spent the rest of the evening being puzzled (crosswords etc.)

Sunday 13th March 2022

As usual, it was a bit of a struggle getting a good nights sleep in a strange bed.

Fun start to the day involved attempting to work out how the extremely complex coffee pod machine worked (we don’t have such fancy-pant technology at home), followed by getting the muffins just right in the strange toaster. Mission reasonably well accomplished we added some of the complimentary rhubarb preserve - not something we would have chosen, but it’s always good to try new things.

Before long we were off to the bus stop, where the footpath veered off on it’s way towards the fishing village of Craster, past Craster Tower - which proved to be about my height - then across the field and through the woods to the village. The first thing we noticed as we emerged near the tourist information office was a hut selling kipper in a bun! We headed down to the front and had a quick look at the sea as the winds battered us and the waves crashed into the harbour walls.

The Shoreline Cafe supplied us with coffee and teacakes (and a chance to warm up), and then it was time to head along the coast path towards Dunstanburgh Castle. We didn’t get far before deciding that hats, gloves and buffs might be necessary in the strong cold winds. As we worked our way along the coastline we watched the waves smashing against the rocks, being whisked into shaving foam (or was it candy floss?)

As we drew closer to the castle we skirted round inland a little to follow a path through some marshy land and encountered a common toad (I looked it up when we got home) sat on the path, so we said hello to him/her. The castle was closed due to the strong winds threatening to blow stones off the higher ruins.

On the way back the sky had finally started to turn blue rather than grey, and it was becoming even more enjoyable, if still bracing.

As we arrived back in the village we paid a visit to L. Robson & Sons, the fish smokers shop and bought some kipper pate and biscuits. There was a queue for the cafe and The Jolly Fisherman was absolutely heaving so we headed to the Mick Oxley Gallery so Michelle could eye up the glass ornaments. We finally got into the cafe for a fantastic haddock chowder/crab sandwich and then back to the gallery to actually make a purchase of a perfume bottle.

We found a slightly different route back to the cottage including a couple of kissing gates clearly not designed with humans and backpacks in mind.

Time for a nice cup of tea and to write up some notes.

Dunstanburgh Castle

Monday 14th March 2022

Even further “Oop North” via the A1 and the cusp of a different country - although at various times in history Berwick-Upon-Tweed was actually part of Scotland.

We managed to find free parking at the Quayside and bobbed into Lowry’s at the Chandlery before we had left the car park for morning coffee. Apparently L.S. Lowry regularly holidayed in Berwick and completed many paintings of the town.

We set off for the main street, and explored a fairly unremarkable town centre until we reached the top of Castigate and made our way up to Meg’s Mount on the Elizabethan defensive walls. Good old Meg (never did find out who she was) offered some spectacular views across the town, the estuary, bridges and out to sea. It was a bit blowy, but dry, blue skies and a bit of fluffy cloud as we made our way round the walls stopping at various Lowry views with copies of his paintings of the area, and checking out the old gun emplacements. By the time we had worked our way back round to the quayside we were ready for lunch so headed back into the town centre. With a bit of help from Trip Adviser, we found The Cornerhouse which had a real mix of art, maps, and movie posters on the walls - smoked sausage/falafel and chilli ciabattas, and takeaway cakes for the evening.

A few light afternoon showers as we headed back up Castigate, and then down the steps to the riverside walk where we followed the River Tweed along to the 28 arch viaduct.

We decided to head back to the car before getting caught in any showers and headed back via the scenic route of the coast road through Bamburgh and Seahouses.

Tuesday 15th March 2022

The local bus service took us from 50 metres down our lane on the 30 minute journey to the fishing village of Seahouses for £9.50

The plan was to walk back along the coast path to our cottage before it got dark. After a quick look around the village and a coffee in the pub we got rolls and cakes from Trotters bakers in preparation for the ordeal, and finally set off at 10.30

The walk starting at the harbour soon had us ducking flying golf balls as we worked our way through the local golf course, a little bit of road walking and into Annstead Dunes Nature Reserve, complete with Exmoor ponies peering over the top of the dunes as we arrived on the beach.

The weather was perfect, although a little bit windy, but the soft sand soon made the going tough on the old hips. We managed to get off the beach at Beadnell heading slightly inland to Salt Water Cafe for a quick coffee stop. Picking up the coastal path again we walked through huge caravan parks before settling down at the bottom of the big sand dunes for our picnic lunch.

Plodding on we soon started to get glimpses of Dunstanburgh Castle which would give us a lift as it got closer. Then we reached another golf course and promptly got lost - temporarily as they had roped off a small bridge over a stream. Wandering around the course we eventually strode across the fairway to get back onto the path. Good job there was hardly anyone playing golf at this point. Finally reaching the castle and working our way round the back we were back on the familiar path back to Craster. We could see smoke rising from the village indicating that Craster Smokehouse was in full operation as we got closer.

Full of aches and pains we dived into The Jolly Fisherman for luxury fish pie/monkfish and shrimp curry accompanied by a couple of drinks before heading back to the cottage. It was dark by now and just as well we had remembered a torch to help us along the unlit footpaths, through the woods, and across the fields back to base.

Northumberland Coastline

Wednesday 16th March 2022

After yesterday’s exertions, and with a deteriorating weather forecast, a trip to a town was called for. Hello Alnwick! After driving straight through and out the other side of town, we took the scenic route back in to find a free car park on the edge of town with one other solitary car. Soon afterwards we found ourselves walking down Pottergate, through an arch and arriving in the shops and Grannies’s Tearoom - down in a crypt-like basement, and last visited in 2014 when we were last in the area. We only popped in for coffee, but accidentally ordered bacon, stilton, cranberry/beef, cheddar, onion marmalade paninis to accompany them for an early lunch. Back up the stairs to leave with lemon, and passion fruit curds.

The light but persistent drizzle meant we spent the next few hours popping into shops and coffee shops and ended up with a new top, flavoured gin, and a single malt. We did walk down to the castle and gardens, but they were both closed so no sign of Harry Potter.

Thursday 17th March 2022

A short drive to Seahouses golf course where we had spotted free parking on the grassy bank over the road from the clubhouse a couple of days earlier. It did mean a short walk into town - but it was free!

We didn’t like the look of the first coffee shop we saw, and everything else was either takeaway only or closed, so we ended up in the pub. The Bamburgh Castle Inn cleaning lady told us which way to go and that the coffee was good, even if the workman talking to her was holding a Costa cup. The coffee and fruit scones were pretty good - and having been in the Bamburgh Castle Inn this did of course mean that we would have to walk all the way to the Castle itself.

We started on the path just above the beach, pausing briefly to put on extra layers to combat the windchill, before dropping down onto the sandy beach. Huge stretches of golden sand lay out before us, and was being blown about in the breezy conditions. Occasionally we encountered rocky areas which made it a bit more tricky underfoot, but did offer photo opportunities. After a while we could see Bamburgh Castle in the distance, and we cut in through the sand dunes to join the road into Bamburgh. As we passed the impressive castle we googled to see what lunch spots might be available and were promptly turned away from the Copper Kettle as it was full. A little further up the road we found The Pantry - a small takeaway which provided us finally with a delicious smoked kipper in a bun, and coffee. We sat on a bench on the village green and enjoyed our lunch in the sunshine looking down at the castle.

Bamburgh Castle

On the way back we skirted round the castle and rejoined the road before being put off using the official coastal path by a warning sign - Bull in field!

Retracing our steps Michelle continued collecting fresh beach treasure in an old sock after the high tide about an hour earlier. Arriving back in Seahouses, we popped into the Co-Op for provisions and then back to the cottage.

Friday 18th March 2022

An inland drive for a change as we head to Cragside (National Trust) near Rothbury and described as “Britain’s original smart home”. There was a long diversion on the way, but got there in the end and made straight for the cafe just for a quick coffee (and Victoria sponge/border cake).

We then set off for a walk around the beautiful lake - in short sleeves in the sunshine, and then in fleeces when in the shade. As we got round the far side of the lake we were right next to the entrance kiosk and were able to ask for another map of the estate, as we had misplaced the one given to us on entry.

Heading on into the woods, past the archimedes screw which provided hydroelectricity to the house (the first in the world) and a little further up the stream we found a nice bench for our packed lunch (ham/cheese stotties).

Onwards to the formal gardens which offered great views over the valley and hills beyond. Unfortunately, some of the gardens and surrounding estate were closed due to damage inflicted by recent storms.

Over the iron footbridge and up to the house which displayed typical Victorian extravagance combined with hydraulic lifts, dishwashers, and the hydroelectric powered lighting.

Cragside

Cold drinks in the very quiet cafe, and a quick look in the shop, before finding an alternative route back - almost running out of fuel - and making it back to Alnwick just in time.

We decided to support local business and had booked an evening meal in The Cottage Inn, a couple of doors down from our cottage - Just disappointing!