Saturday 4th February 2023
Travelling the well-trodden route down the A47, across Sutton Bridge, into Lincolnshire and towards Abbey Parks. Stunned to discover that the cafe was closed due to a serious fire last September. The shop was open but we didn’t fancy half a pound of raw sausages with Stokes tomato ketchup, so we carried on to Byards Leap for sustenance. Amazingly, they too were closed for no apparent reason on a Saturday. Pressing on and becoming increasingly desperate, we ended up pulling into a McDonald’s on the outskirts of Mansfield - and only just found a parking space on the second circuit of the car park.
Back on route we reached the High Peak and after a little bit of driving round found our cottage just as it started to drizzle, and only about 5 minutes after our earliest check-in time.
What appeared to be a nice clean airy cottage at first glance soon showed a different side when we discovered the draining board, saucepans, and grill were all covered in soapy water which hadn’t been rinsed or dried, and a hoover which was jammed full of the stuff that hoovers pick up. Not the end of the world, but should have been sorted before we got there.
After settling in, we walked down into New Mills to explore, and discovered footpaths and bridleways in all directions. A bit later back at the cottage we cooked tortellini, sweetcorn, pesto and garlic bread on an unfamiliar cooker which took a bit of getting used to - and we didn’t manage to find a handle for the grill.
War of the Worlds in the evening.
Sunday 5th February 2023
Came down to a bit of a chill in the air and discovered that the underfloor heating didn’t seem to have come on and it was only 15.5 degrees until we pressed frantically at the thermostat buttons to get some response. No milk to make any porridge, so away to New Mills centre and a place called Door34 (I wonder how they thought the name up) for excellent toasties - ham and cheese/halloumi and chilli plus coffees. We were so keen to try the place we were there 5 minutes before opening time.
Full of fuel we dropped down through a couple of back streets to the bottom of the Goyt Valley and wandered around the Torrs Riverside Park - a labyrinth of footpaths, bridges, mills and waterways - full of industrial history and man’s manipulation of nature. We walked along part of the Sett Valley Trail, before following some of the Goyt Way Canal, and on through Mousley Bottom Nature Reserve. Back in New Mills we walked along the Millennium Walkway, which alternately clung to the side of the wall or balanced on tall pillars and was an all-round amazing viewpoint of the river, mills and valley in the town.
By now of course it was time for cake, and we thought we should stick with what we knew - so back to Door34 for lattes and delicious Victoria Sponge. Sainsbury’s local helped us out with milk and wine, and one or two other less important provisions, before a quick pit-stop at Clockwork Cafe for breakfast tea on the walk back to the cottage. The other customers were really poor at managing to close the door on their way out.
Back at the cottage we had a bit of a sit down with a cuppa before heading out in the dark for a quick exploration of the roads in the other direction to New Mills. All in all 6 miles walked today.
Last ever episode of Happy Valley - after the TV box had crashed and needed restarting, and we had figured out how to start watching it 10 minutes later via BBC iplayer.
Monday 6th February 2023
A leisurely start to another bright frosty morning began with porridge and coffee now that we had the necessary ingredients, and followed with a few chapters of the latest crime novel on the kindle before preparations for today’s walk. Happily the underfloor heating had done its job and all was nice and comfortable when we came down.
Set off in bright sunshine heading in the wrong direction (towards New Mills) so that we could cross the River Sett near the cemetery, and pick up the Sett Valley Trail. This former railway line is 2.5 miles long and links New Mills with Hayfield (I wonder how they thought that name up). It was easy walking through a beautiful valley with plenty of dog walkers, reservoirs full of Canada geese, sheep, horses, a bench being used as a bird feeding station, and even alpaca. Most of the wildlife tended to be off the trail behind fences and hedges with the exception of the birds and squirrels attending the feeding bench.
Reaching the road at Birch Vale, about an hour later, meant we had earned a “Sett Valley Amblers Breakfast” (sausage, bacon, egg, hash brown, tomato, mushrooms, beans, toast) and a brew. The downside was that the garden shed sized cafe was full and we had to sit outside (In February!) It was OK as long as we kept our hats and coats on, and the food was good. Michelle did make the mistake of getting involved with a local character who seemed to know exactly when she had her knee replacements - 20 years ago - right down to the day and the hour. There was also artwork by local artists including stained glass items on display.
Passing the reservoir full of geese we reached Hayfield where we popped into Marmalade coffee shop for coffee and oat cookies topped with white chocolate.
Our next mission was to find the studio of the artist who had made the stained glass we saw in the cafe, so we set off along New Mills Road walked past, back to, and still couldn’t find it. Michelle emailed the artist and she replied immediately to say that she didn’t have a studio open to the public, but that her work was on sale at a shop in Marple.
Joining up with the Sett Valley Trail again at the Sett Valley Cafe, we made our way back to New Mills for provisions from Boots and Sainsbury’s before checking on dining times at the only pub that seemed to do proper food.
Back at the cottage we discovered that Stan couldn’t cope with draining tortellini, turning flatbreads, and pouring wine all at the same time as Michelle chose that time to go to the loo. Consequently our tea included significantly overdone bread whilst perched on the stools of the breakfast bar.
Over six miles walked again today, and His Dark Materials for TV viewing.
Tuesday 7th February 2023
Started the day trying in vain to get a decent passport photograph for Stan as the cottage had a nice light plain wall for background, but also had unbalanced lighting.
Drove away from the cottage in disgust and arrived in the metropolis of Marple. Actually we were in Marple Bridge to start with. Michelle spent some time trying to figure out where she had been when she brought her first grandson nearly a decade earlier. After a visit to the train station Stan finally managed to drag her into Libby’s for coffee and cake to give us the energy for a potter about town.
We wandered through Marple Bridge, on what was a beautiful sunny day, and climbed up Low Lea Road which turned into a farmer’s track. We stumbled upon Oldknows Mill (derelict ruins) and learnt a little more about 18th and 19th century industry which we have probably forgotten about now. Walking back up the other side of the River Goyt we walked along the towpath of The Peak Forest Canal, past a few locks and then did a quick detour into Marple’s shopping centre. Michelle found the shop selling Linda’s stained glass and promptly made a purchase.
Time for more energy, and The Locks appeared to be the best of the cafes we could see, apart from there being too many people under the age of 4. Ham, egg and chips in a sandwich/bacon, chilli jam, cream cheese naanwich were the unusual choices.
Picking up the towpath again, we passed many more locks before crossing Marple Aqueduct (the highest in England), dropped down some steps at the far end and then walked under it. The remaining walk back involved muddy woods alongside the River Goyt and a bit of the Midshires Way before arriving in Brabyn’s Park just as it was getting dark.
Over 6 miles walked again - not bad for a potter around town.
Wednesday 8th February 2023
Out in the car again - a short hop through New Mills and Disley on another bright, fresh day took us to the National Trust property Lyme Park. Although the house itself was closed for the winter, the chap who scanned our membership cards pointed out that there was still 1400 acres to explore, so we could still feasibly get lost.
We checked out the toilets in the house, but the house cafe wasn’t open at 11.05 (even though it said it should be) so we wandered off to the Timberyard Cafe for breakfast baps and flat whites - and that was only because they hadn’t started the lunch menu including Cornish pasties yet! We grabbed pistachio shortbread and eccles cake for the coming expedition and set off for a bracing walk through the grounds. After walking along a fairly sheltered path we came to a more exposed hill which had views across Stockport and beyond towards Manchester. Walking back towards Lyme House via the North Cheshire Way, we spotted what we discovered were scarlet elf cups (fungus) - possibly a first for us. Shortly afterwards we devoured our cakes even though we couldn’t find anywhere to sit and enjoy the experience. Once back at our starting point we ducked back into the cafe for lattes, and then set off for Cage Hill.
It was still very bright, but a keen February breeze meant hats and hoods were needed as we walked up the exposed ridge to the folly. From this spot we had more great views and by now we had probably seen all seven counties the property claimed were visible. One of the closer views was down into the deer park which had a good sized herd heading from left to right as they slowly grazed. They shortly afterwards stopped in their tracks as an amateur photographer positioned himself right in front of them. We were hoping for some dramatic confrontation which would have resulted in him running for his life, but the deer just stared at him and then turned their backs on him like he wasn’t worth it.
On the way back to the cottage we stopped in New Mills for a suitcase padlock, shoe brush, and quorn (I know - bit of an odd mix!) The padlock was for Michelle as she had an onward train journey in the morning, and train passengers can’t be trusted.
Thursday 9th February 2023
The usual running around tidying, packing, and checking at least three times to make sure we hadn’t left anything in a drawer before we threw everything in the car and drove away. A mile down the road we stopped to check a bag contained the top that Michelle couldn’t remember packing, and thought might have been left hung up. Everything was present and correct.
Drove on to New Mills Newtown station (such a huge place it had 2 stations), stopped in the car park and discovered the train would be a while. The cold air induced a need for a comfort break, but the station didn’t have the facilities. Fortunately the next door neighbours did in the form of a Gym and helped Michelle out, whilst Stan hung on till Mansfield and our usual McDonald’s.