Nidderdale

Saturday 14th May 2022

A warm sunny day for the drive up North - radio talk of chaos on the A1 near Leeds had thankfully cleared by the time we got there. Abbey Parks was the usual stop for early lunch, and Wetherby Services for coffee outside in the sunshine.

Made it all the way to the village of Pateley Bridge before making the one and only slight wrong turn - immediately realised that we were trying to drive into the museum and police station car park - quickly reversed and continued up the hill to the cottage. Moira (the owner of Silver Hill Cottage) was waiting outside her cottage as we arrived high up on one side of Nidderdale, and after a quick chat we were soon humping suitcases up the two flights of stairs.

Once settled in, we walked down the road for a short way, where we were stopped and asked for directions by an elderly couple in a car, and then onto a steep grass path down to the River Nidd. We met a dog walker who informed us we had been lucky to just miss the cows which had been in the field we had just crossed, and we then carried on into the village. Mostly closed by this time of the day, we ended up picking up a few provisions from the Spar for tea after bumping into the couple who had asked for directions - they were on the hunt for somewhere to eat.

Nidderdale View

Sunday 15th May 2022

A wet start to the day, and a huge spider in the bath meant no showers and a trip to the City of Ripon. £2.00 all day parking just a short walk from the centre before a quick wander round the market place, and then a flat white in a large cafe/bar which felt much like a Wetherspoon’s. It was at this point that I received an email informing me of Uncle Roy's death.

We walked down to the River Skell and stood on a bridge watching wagtails, and a family of ducks negotiating the weir/ford, then followed the river until some very solid stepping stones helped us to the other side, but not before a friendly local said they had come to watch us fall in. Following the river further downstream we reached the River Ure and followed it across the edge of a field until we swung round and reentered the city under a flyover. We stopped briefly to investigate a small leper chapel (St Mary Magdalen’s) and made our way back into the City centre.

We happened upon the Storehouse Kitchen and just walked in without checking reviews, menu, or pricing - it just seemed our sort of place, and by far the best thing we had seen since arriving. The confit duck hash with smoked pepper sauce, and potato rosti with garlic mushrooms were both fab and proved us right.

Suitably fed, we went in search of Ripon cathedral which offered free entry for a change (take note Ely) and we got to listen to a bit of choir practice too. Bought a couple of small bits from the cathedral shop so we felt as though we had contributed.

A quick bit of shopping in Home Bargains and Sainsbury’s before they closed and then back to base by the more direct route in 25 minutes. Quickly moved the spider to some outside accommodation with the help of a glass and a coaster before a cup of tea and a shower.

Monday 16th May 2022

Very wet overnight and into the morning, so we had pre-booked to go to Stump Cross Caverns for 11.00AM, and their cafe at 12.00PM figuring that the cave system should still be drier than the outside world. We set off in quite heavy rain with hoodies and waterproofs for the wet conditions outside and the cold damp ones in the caves. Apparently it would be 7 degrees underground. Miserable views as we drove the short distance over the tops to the car park.

We were given a short briefing by a member of staff to give us the background, issued with a map and a torch, told where to pick up a helmet and we were off. A self guided tour deep underground - the instructions we were given were just keep turning left, and if you reach a dead end turn around and retrace your steps then take the next left again. Helmets on, it was time to descend the steep steps and into the cave network - discovered by lead miners in 1860 where the remains of reindeer and wolverine were also discovered. No longer a working mine the stalactites, stalagmites, and other rock formations now have imaginative names like policeman’s truncheon and wedding cake. Thanks to the hardhats we were able to bump our heads many times on the sometimes very low and narrow passageways. We also discovered that two girls had been served afternoon tea at a table set up at the far end of the cave network, but there was barely a crumb left by the time we got there. However, that did remind us that we had paid a deposit to reserve a table in the cafe and so retraced our steps - bumping our hats several more times.

Lunch was excellent - consisting of New York pastrami gherkin sandwich and pork belly with apple compote shared between us plus flat whites, and then lattes to follow. Lots of interesting crystals and large clocks for sale in the cafe area, but we made do with a metal notice board.

Heading outside the rain had stopped so we quickly drove halfway back and pulled into the Coldstone Cut car park and baled out with many layers (just in case). After a quick wander down the path to see an old lime kiln, and to accidentally frighten some lambs who tried to head-butt their way through a wire fence to escape us, we headed towards the main attraction. Yorkshire’s biggest and highest public artwork with views over a huge working quarry and the surrounding hills and valleys. By the time we had looked at the panoramic view map with distances to everywhere we had ever been, the sun was out and it was getting quite warm.

An hour and a half later we were heading back for a cup of tea.

Tuesday 17th May 2022

10.00AM and we were fully laden with food and drink for the day, and walked down into Pateley Bridge where Michelle popped into the Craft Centre, then set off up hill on the Panoramic View which soon turned into the Nidderdale Way. It was a steep climb out of the village which then became good walking along the side of the valley past the village of Blazefield. As we got closer to our destination we needed to cross Fell Beck and hopped over a stile and dropped down towards the stream. It was very muddy, and unfortunately trees were down following strong winds and we couldn’t find anything that looked like a suitable crossing. Then an unprovoked attack by a tree on Stan as he slipped in the mud led to a couple of minutes of mild panic. Somehow Stan’s glasses had been flipped of his head and were nowhere to be seen. After a minute or two of very carefully standing still, and some eagle eyed spotting from the man without his glasses they were recovered from the mud and the adventure could continue. What followed was an hour and a half climbing back up muddy slopes, wandering across fields, and clambering over dry stone walls trying to find a route across the stream.

We finally arrived at our destination later than planned and sat beneath some massive boulders for our packed lunch - sharing our apple cores with the friendly jackdaws. We then walked the final stretch up to Brimham Rocks proper, and wandered around the strange rock structures for a while before settling down at a picnic table for a cup of N.T. tea and a shortbread.

We decided to take an alternative route back (this had always been the plan) and this included following a path down the valley which seemed to become more like a stream the further we went, but eventually turned into a great path running alongside the River Nidd. Dogs swimming in the river, fly fishermen standing up to their waists in it, and a few bullocks in the adjacent fields.

Sweaty and tired we arrived back in Pateley Bridge, popped into Spar for provisions and then got caught in a little light rain as we trudged back up the hill to the cottage. Later, as we devoured crackers, cheese, meats, olives, there was an absolute monsoon - but we had timed it well.

Wednesday 18th May 2022

A nice sunny day, but after yesterday’s exertions something a bit more leisurely is called for. So we decided to do Pateley Bridge. Walking down into the village we discovered a tearoom which gave us a pot of tea for two for £3. Having not found the tourist information office yet, we found the village heritage trail online and set off. After a few red plaques for long-gone train stations, existing bridges, cocoa houses, and fair sites (now a health centre) we paused for lunch - beef and horseradish/Wensleydale and cranberry plus OJs. Back on the trail we spent a happy hour in the Nidderdale Museum pointing out all the things we remembered our grandparents and parents having in their houses - and yes, even some things we used ourselves. Then it was on to the craft workshops next door where there was a purchase of a glass perfume bottle to add to the collection. The remaining red plaques were for a series of old buildings, a well which has been borrowed from somewhere else, and a brewery which was demolished in the 1960s.

Probably the highlight was a quick stop in Cocoa Joes for 64.5% Peruvian and 30% Belgian Blonde - both bloody gorgeous.

On the way back to the cottage we spent half an hour on “our bench” watching Nidderdale activity through our binoculars.

Thursday 19th May 2022

A later start, but we packed up a lunch and set off on foot to tackle the Nidderdale Way the other way. It was still shorts weather but did call for another layer on top as we set off. Plodding down the steep Wath Road we shortly joined the main trail alongside the River Nidd, which appeared to be the old railway line used for the construction of the dam further up the valley. We eventually reached the dam which formed Gouthwaite Reservoir, disappointed that the perfectly good path across the Victorian dam was gated and padlocked. After walking a little further through the sheep with their lambs we stopped for lunch, sitting on a bit of fallen dry stone wall overlooking the reservoir.

Soon after we resumed the walk we discarded the additional top layers as things had definitely warmed up. We carried on to Bouthwaite at the far end of the lake, pausing now and then to view the birds through the binoculars.

We retraced our steps stopping to chat with fellow walkers from time to time, but rather than veer off to our cottage we pressed on to Pateley Bridge for refreshments. On the way back to the village we were tormented by Otto, a mad uncontrollable dog which insisted on dashing backwards and forwards almost bumping into us on a few occasions. We had thought that the Pancake House closed at 4, but we were delighted to find that we got there just in time. Millionaires/Honeycomb ice cream pancakes with OJs followed. As we still hadn’t visited a local pub we bobbed into The Crown for a couple of pints before negotiating new footpaths round the back of a housing estate and back to the cottage.

Friday 20th May 2022

A short drive to Fountains Abbey, and we parked up and made straight for the cafe encountering a Jubilee Pudding being carried across the courtyard. We marched into the restaurant and ordered same pudding with our tongues hanging out, only to be told that it wasn’t available until next weekend! After a bit of banter with the staff we settled on Victoria sponge with the hope that Jubilee pudding would be available at out local National Trust property when we got home.

We finally set off for a walk round Studley Royal Deer Park (and saw plenty of deer) before it started to rain, so we headed back towards Studley Lake and popped into the tearooms for coffee and shelter. Once we began walking towards the Abbey it absolutely bucketed down and we had no choice but to shelter under a big tree. We set off once again as it eased off and reminisced about previous visits when it was much drier, and made it back to the visitor centre again. Yorkshire rarebit with bacon, and tea for two.

Time for a quick look round the shop now that it had completely stopped raining, then we headed back to Pateley Bridge to visit the final couple of shops we hadn’t visited so far. In the sunshine this included the oldest sweetshop in England (probably).

Saturday 21st May 2022

A quick chat with Moira (the cottage owner who lived next door) as we loaded up the car. Fairly uneventful journey home although we did stop at Pippa’s Pantry in Sutton Bridge (where one of us has some roots) which was very brightly coloured and highly decorated, but that is the best we can say about it.